Written by Terry Dunn
Laser-cut kit has ’70s appeal
Product Review
As seen in the October 2018 issue of Model Aviation.
Bonus Video
Specifications
Type: Glow/electric laser-cut kit Wingspan: 60 inches Wing area: 527 square inches Length: 42.8 inches Radio: Futaba 14SG 2.4 GHz transmitter; Futaba R617FS receiver; four Hitec HS-225MG mini servos Components needed to complete: Power system; radio gear; pushrods; wheels; shop tools; glues; covering Minimal flying area: Club field Price: $119.95 Power system: E-flite Power 32 brushless motor; APC 12 x 8E propeller; Graupner 70-amp ESC; Flight Power 4S 3,300 mAh 25C LiPo battery Power output: 54.5 amps, 850 watts Power loading: 188 watts per pound Flying weight: 4.5 pounds Wing loading: 19.7 ounces per square foot Flight duration: 7-plus minutesPluses
• Classic styling. • Precise fit of laser-cut parts. • Sporty, aerobatic performance.Minuses
• Weak hatch magnets. • Limited battery positioning. • Light rudder authority.Image

The Sky Ranger 40 is a sporty, low-stress performer.
Product Review
Everyone knows that the RC airplane market is dominated by ARFs. It is easy for those of us who enjoy building to feel neglected, but there are still numerous options put forth by a cottage industry of kit producers. In fact, the latest generation of laser-cut kits is better than ever! A new company in the kit market is Old School Model Works. The company’s Sky Ranger 40 is a modern airplane with classic styling. This open-cockpit sport airplane is reminiscent of the hand-built models of yesteryear. In this review, I will cover the basic aspects of building the Sky Ranger 40. Of course, no review would be complete without a rundown of the model’s flight performance!Building the Sky Ranger 40
The Sky Ranger 40 includes most of the components that you will need to make a flying model. There is a selection of laser-cut balsa and plywood parts, as well as sheet and strip stock. Prebent main landing gear and the necessary hardware are also included. Assembly is guided by a printed manual and two sheets of full-size plans.Image

The Sky Ranger 40 kit includes laser-cut components, full-size plans, and a selection of hardware.
In addition to the basic tools and adhesives required for a kit build, you must also supply the wheels, pushrods, covering, power system, and radio gear. Glow fliers will need a .40 to .45 engine. Those who prefer electric power should choose a system with at least 700 watts of power. The radio demands are basic. A minimum four-channel system with standard servos will work fine.
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The author used a Futaba radio system with Hitec servos to control the Sky Ranger 40
Construction begins by building the left and right wing panels over the plans. The overall wing design is quite traditional, but the assembly process has unconventional elements. A bottom spar is secured to the work surface and ribs are added, starting at the wingtip. What’s unique is that two shear webs are glued to the inboard side of each rib before it is glued to the spar. This technique produces a rigid wing structure early on, but it does demand extra care to maintain proper alignment. The dihedral brace consists of a single piece of light plywood sandwiched by balsa. The manual instructs you to epoxy these parts to each other while concurrently mating them with the wing. I had a little trouble managing the multiple layers when dry-fitting everything together, so I went off script and assembled the dihedral brace separately before using it to join the wing halves. Although the fuselage looks as though it has a complex truss structure built of sticks, it is actually a simple sheet assembly. Light plywood is used in the forward half, while the rear is balsa. It all goes together quickly.
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Experienced builders will have no trouble framing the Sky Ranger 40. A unique aspect of assembly is that shear webs are attached to the wing ribs before being joined to the spar.
The curved topside of the fuselage uses 1/8-inch balsa stringers. Knowing how clumsy I can be, I knew it would only be a matter of time before I snapped one (or more) of those stringers while handling the model. I beefed things up by substituting 1/8-inch basswood sticks. A magnetically secured hatch provides access to the battery/fuel tank area. The included magnets did not hold the hatch as securely as I wanted. I overcame this by adding a 1/4-inch Hatch Latch Kit from Retro RC. The tail feathers are made of 1/4-inch laser-cut balsa sheet. They were easy to assemble correctly and sand to shape. The manual does not define any specific method for configuring the control setup on the rudder and elevator. Pushrods are not provided, so you will have to make your own. I used carbon-fiber tubes with 2-56 threaded rod on both ends. I’m sure that hardwood dowels would work as well. Finding a suitable location for the elevator control horn was simple. The rudder proved to be more challenging. My solution was to create an adjustable control horn of sorts. The tail wheel wire is connected directly to the rudder. I attached a 3/32 wheel collar to this wire near the midpoint of the fuselage. I replaced the collar’s setscrew with a 1-inch long 4-40 bolt. A threaded nylon linkage on the bolt allows it to connect with a clevis on the rudder pushrod. With this configuration, the rudder servo provides direct control of the rudder and tail wheel. I wanted wheels that would accentuate the nostalgic lines of the Sky Ranger 40. Du-Bro’s 1/8-scale Vintage Wheels (3.5-inch diameter) did the trick. I drilled the hubs with a 13/64 drill bit to fit the landing gear wire. I used a lightweight 1.25-inch diameter foam wheel on the tail. A model such as the Sky Ranger 40 is ripe for many color schemes. I wanted to keep things simple and clean. Most of the model is covered with white UltraCote. The fleur-de-lis graphics are hand cut from UltraCote trim sheet. The kit includes parts for an optional headrest behind the cockpit. Assembling and sanding the parts to shape were both quick tasks.
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The optional headrest was built, sanded, and painted. It provides a nice cosmetic accent.
Although I’m sure that some of you iron-on wizards could do it in your sleep, covering the curvy headrest was a real chore for me. After three failed attempts, I turned the iron off and switched to paint. I sealed the wood with water-based polyurethane, then primed and painted it with Krylon spray paint. I like the result. I applied a standard wood stain to the light plywood sides of the fuselage. Two coats of water-based polyurethane over the stain provided a nice finish. It helped to lightly sand the wood with 200- or 300-grit sandpaper following the stain and first coat of polyurethane. Pilots who fly with nitro power will want to make sure to choose fuelproof products. An open-cockpit model looks best with a pilot figure in place. I found a suitable one in my spare parts bin. Spare light plywood was used to create an instrument panel and false floor to further dress up the cockpit area. All of the control surfaces are actuated by Hitec HS-225MG servos. I used a Futaba R617FS receiver linked to a Futaba SG14 transmitter. My radio programming reflects the simple nature of the Sky Ranger 40. It’s a snap to set everything up. The battery fits nicely in its compartment, but there is little room to shift it forward or backward. That could be an issue for some builders when trying to balance the model. I lucked out and mine balanced perfectly with the standard battery location. No ballast was necessary.
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The flight battery fits well, but there is little room for adjustment. Note the hatch retention magnets that were added in each corner.
Although I did not have any notable hiccups while building the Sky Ranger 40, I do not think this kit is suitable for first-time builders. Facets such as control setup and engine mounting are left completely up to the builder. You’ll need to be competent with those skills.
Comments
Pilot figure
Terry, where did you get the pilot figure and what size is he?
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