Great Planes Avistar GP/EP Sport Trainer
Written by Greg Gimlick A Giant Scale Sport ARF Product Review Photos by the author As seen in the March 2016 issue of Model Aviation.
Specifications
• Model type: Giant Scale sport ARF • Skill level: Intermediate builder/intermediate pilot • Wingspan: 90.5 inches • Wing area: 1,448 square inches • Airfoil: Semisymmetrical • Length: 77.25 inches • Weight: 16.5 to 17.5 pounds • Wing loading: 26 to 28 ounces per square feet • Power system: 30 to 35cc gas engine or 63-62-250 kV brushless electric motor; 60-amp ESC; two 4S 14.8-volt 5,000 mAh or two 5S 18.5-volt • 5,000 mAh LiPo batteries • Radio: Four-plus-channel transmitter with receiver and minimum five high-torque servos; 3,200 mAh LiFe receiver battery • Accessories and hardware: Servo extensions and Y connectors according to your setup • Construction: Built-up wood • Covering: MonoKote • Street price: $449.99Test-model Details
• Motor used: RimFire 1.60 (63-62-250) brushless outrunner motor • Propeller: APC 20 x 10E or APC 18 x 8E • Battery: FlightPower FP50 5,000 mAh 5S 18.5-volt LiPos (two in series) • Radio system: Futaba 14SG 14-channel 2.4 GHz FASST transmitter; Futaba R7008SB receiver; seven Futaba S9072SB servos, two Futaba S3001 servos (in floats), Futaba S.Bus Hub 4 Port, Futaba S.Bus SBC-1 Channel Changer; two Futaba S.Bus Servo Hub Cables • Ready-to-fly weight: 16 pounds, 5 ounces (21 pounds on floats) • Flight duration: 8 to 10 minutesPluses
• Built-up construction. • Large, easy battery access. • Great flight characteristics. • Flap option is easy to add. • Tricycle and tail-dragger landing gear options both included. • Excellent covering job. • Easy assembly. • Great power. • Fast to assemble at the field.Minus
• Aileron and flap control horns don’t use backplates.Product Review
When two boxes this big arrive, it’s hard not to be impressed—the UPS delivery person certainly was. When I unpacked the parts, I was even more impressed with the job someone at the warehouse did, packing so much fully covered parts into the boxes and shipping them without damage. Everything was beautifully wrapped and protected. Close inspection of all of the parts found them to be perfect. The option of installing tricycle or conventional tail-dragger landing gear was nice, including wheel pants and gear pieces provided for both. I also got the floats, which were equally impressive and well packed. The thorough instruction manual includes directions on setting up the S.Bus system if you choose. Because I have a Futaba 14SG, this was a no-brainer. The assembly illustrations and description make this a perfect model for someone new to Giant Scale flying. The covering scheme was so nice that I nearly didn’t apply the decals.Assembly
Begin the assembly by thoroughly reading the instruction manual. This will alert you to a couple of areas where you need to decide how you want to do things. Determine now whether you’re going to install the S.Bus system, the type of gear you want to use, and whether you want flaps or not. The manual walks you through these decisions. I labeled each servo for its intended use and programmed them with the S.Bus SBC-1 device. If you’ve never done this, it is clearly explained in the manual. You’ll wonder why all of your airplanes aren’t wired this way once you do it. This is also the time to carefully inspect the covering and seal any loose areas. Surprisingly, I found none, but I did go over the main seams, especially on the floats. Assembly begins with installing the wing servos. The holes are precut and perfectly sized for standard servos. There are strings inside the wing to easily pull your extensions through. If you’re using flaps, you’ll have to cut them loose from the ailerons at this time. I was impressed with the way Great Planes designed that option and it’s one I’ve never seen used before. Each flap is attached to the aileron with two dowels glued through the ends of the control surfaces. If you don’t use flaps, the ailerons consist of the aileron and flap joined together. A simple cut with a razor saw separates them and everything is ready to connect to the servos. My flap and servo wires connected to the S.Bus hub extension so only one wire exits each wing half. It doesn’t matter where you plug them into the fuselage hub because the servos know what they’re for from earlier programming. I wish the control horns on the flaps and ailerons were drilled through and used backplates. Instead, they are partially drilled and secured with #4 x 5/8 screws. Hardening the holes with CA glue keeps them secure, but on a Giant Scale airplane, I prefer backplates for extra security. All of the control rods use threaded clevises on one end and soldered clevises on the other. Silver solder works best and there is a soldering tutorial in the manual. The only problem I ran into was the plating on the inside of the clevis that required some filing before I could get the solder to adhere. Remember, the surfaces have to be extremely clean. The tail surfaces already have the covering removed from the gluing surfaces—what a great surprise that was! I test-fitted the pieces and ensured that they would be square when glued, and then installed the wing for reference. Measure everything carefully and then measure it again to make sure it’s properly positioned before bracing it for the epoxy to dry. Do not try to use 5-minute epoxy. You’ll need more time to get it right. I used 30-minute epoxy, braced everything after it was true, and cleaned up any excess with alcohol before it set. Landing gear is the next step and it requires you to decide which configuration you want. I’m partial to tail-draggers, so I went with that, but pieces for both are included. It’s simply a matter of bolting them in place and connecting the steering mechanisms. Again, each method is carefully explained in the manual. The preinstalled blind nuts on the wheel pants are perfectly aligned with the landing gear legs.The tail wheel assembly is installed, along with the elevator and rudder horns. The tail wheel assembly fits into predrilled holes with plastic bushings.
Radio installation in the fuselage is next, along with connecting the control rods to the tail surfaces. A battery/receiver tray slides into place behind the servos. Test-fit everything and secure it with epoxy. The tail surface control rods are installed in the same way as were the ailerons and flaps. The guide/support tubes are already glued in place. Align the control horns, drill the surfaces, and secure with bolts in the usual fashion. Everything lined up nicely with the pushrod tubes for free and easy motion.
Motor/Engine Installation
Whether you’re using electric power or a gas engine, the installation method is clearly described in the manual. Each type of power has been carefully planned and the included pieces make for easy installation with particular notes included, depending on your brand of powerplant. Someone put a lot of thought into this. I used a RimFire 1.60 motor, ElectriFly Silver Series 80-amp ESC, and two FlightPower FP50-series 5S 5,000 mAh LiPo batteries. I had previously installed such systems using the Great Planes brushless motor mount for large motors, but because the Avistar included a plywood box assembly, I decided to go with that. It is an ingenious design that, when glued together, won’t come apart. It’s more than strong enough to withstand anything I throw at it. I also like this method because it’s completely modular, so removing it brings the motor, mount, and ESC all off together. Be sure to use threadlocker on the bolts that hold things to the blind nuts. The ESC bolts to the bottom of the mount and gets a nice airflow. The wires to the battery extend back through the firewall to the battery compartment. The batteries are connected in series to provide the 10S power I chose for the Avistar. You can also use an 8S setup and larger propeller. I used the APC 20 x 10E propeller suggested for the 8S setup on my 10S version, and I’m mindful of full throttle times and spikes. Using good throttle management, I can keep within the limits of the motor and ESC according to the data logger I used for the test flights.The motor and batteries are installed. The batteries are connected in series to provide 10S power.
The motor/engine installation is completed by attaching the cowl and drilling it for retaining screws after it is properly aligned. Again, if you’ve never had to do this job, the manual walks you through a method that ensures success and can be used on future models.
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